Bidean nam Bian

On the south side above Glencoe there is a large massif whose main summit is Bidean nam Bian. Edwin Brady and I climbed Bidean and one of its satellite peaks, Stob Coire Sgreamhach. We descended the NW shoulder Stob Coire nan Lochan into the Coire and back to Glencoe.

Both Bidean and Sgreamhach are classified as Scottish Munros (peaks over 3000 feet in elevation.) By current classification, there are 284 Munros. To be counted among the Munros, a peak must have more than 500 feet of prominence from its neighbours. Although Stob Coire nan Lochan at 3658 ft. is well over 3000 ft. its summit does not rise more than 500 feet above the col where it meets Bidean nam Bian and so is not classified as a distinct Munro but is a "top".


Our route took us across the River Coe and up the Lost Valley and up the steep snow slope to the col between Bidean and Stob Coire Sgreamhach. Clicking on the photo above shows the snow headwall leading to the col (low point between the two peaks; Stob Coire Sgreamhach to the east (left in the photo) and Bidean nam Bian to the west.

I had been loaned an ice axe for the climb, and though Edwin had walking poles, he did not have an ice axe. Neither of us had crampons (yet). The further up the Lost Valley we walked the more steeply the headwall loomed and the more my hopes of ascending it without proper tools diminished. I've ascended such slopes before; it reminded me very much of the slope to the col between Snowpatch and Bugaboo spire in the Bugaboos. This slope runs out 600 feet below to an impressive cataract flowing down into the floor of the valley. Edwin insisted we continue on, and we saw a number of parties ascend the headwall, including a large group without ice axes. Based on that we decided to try it. I took the photo (displayed to the left of this text) on descent from Sgreamhach of a party from a Mountaineering club in NE England ascending the headwall.

Once we'd gained to col we left out packs and scrambled to the top of Stob Coire Sgreamhach, our first Munro of the day. The photo at top is of me on the summit with Bidean nam Bian behind. As we headed up the ridge to the summit of Bidean nam Bian, the weather continued to deteriorate with rising winds and drizzle. On the summit, the wind was high enough that it buffeted you off balance if you were caught mid-step. We snapped a few photos and, without lingering, started our descent.



As we descended, the wind continued to increase in velocity and the drizzle turned to icy rain. With the temperature dropping, and the snow firming up I was concerned that Edwin did not have an ice axe, and neither of us had crampons. Fortunately, the party form Sunderland caught up with us and one of them had a backup pair of instep crampons they loaned Edwin. After these were strapped on his boots, his security on the snow improved significantly and we were able to safely descended to the col. The video linked above is of Edwin making his way down the upper section of the ridge. On the saddle, we felt some relief. The other party descended the steep snow slope from the col back into the Lost valley. I felt the slope was too steep to attempt without an axe. Edwin agreed. The map clearly showed the exit from the far end of the ridge (over Stob Coire nan Lochan) to be a far gentler slope. Dropping off the col into the Lost Valley clearly was the quickest exit from the heights, but I felt the risk of a tumble without the possibility of self-arrest was too great. So we somewhat reluctantly headed up the ridge toward the summit of Stob Coire nan Lochan.


But the wind, blowing from the East, only increased in velocity with extreme gusts knocking both of us down more than once. From the speed of the mists blowing over the summit it was clear that, if anything, the wind was blowing harder above. Based on this, about 250 feet from the summit, we traversed out west onto the vast scree and rock slope that is the west side of Stob Coire nan Lochan. Away from the ridge, the winds were manageable. After tedious going on loose rock, we rejoined the ridge at about the same elevation we'd started at. And after easier descent, the skies lightened and then we even caught some sunlight from the West.

This photo shows the view of the north side of Stob Coire nan Lochan, with a number of classic Scottish winter climbs going up the gullies. Our descent traversed the ridge from left to right from just below the summit until we were able to descend a gentle slope into the Corie. By the time I took this photo, we'd been going seven and a half hours and it took another two to get back to the car (and another two and a half to get home to St Andrews). In the end, this turned out to be one of the most satisfying mountaineering trips I've been on in a number of years.